Want a Gaming PC? Try Building Your Own PC IF YOU'VE BEEN beating yourself up about doing nothing productive during quarantine, don't. Sometimes nothing is exactly what you need. Other times, it’s nice to make something with your own hands. That’s what this guide is about. How to Want a Gaming PC? Try Building Your Own PC from scratch. It can be daunting for a lot of reasons—it’s expensive, it’s complex, it can get messy. But I want to be clear: If you can build an Ikea table, bookshelf, bed, or anything that comes in more than one of those deceivingly heavy flatpacks, you can build a PC. Want a Gaming PC? Try Building Your Own PCWhat Do You Need? No matter what your experience level is, you should use pcdubai.com. Not only does it have everything you’ll need to buy, but it lets you Building Your Own PC piece by piece right there on the website, making sure all your hardware will play nicely together. They even have a few example builds you can tweak to your liking if you want. Regardless of what kind of PC you’re building (home office or gaming), the components you need are going to be the same. You’ll need a motherboard, a CPU, storage, memory, a power supply, a case, and a monitor. The only thing you might not need if you're mostly using this PC for home office tasks is a GPU, but it's necessary for photo or video editing and gaming. That’s a lot of stuff. Here’s a little breakdown of what each component does, and some hardware recommendations. Building Your Own PC Motherboard Every other component plugs into this circuit board. It’s the highway they use to communicate and collaborate. They come in different sizes and configurations, and each one looks a little different, but they all fill the same function. ASUS Z490-E GAMING. This one is great for Intel processors. ASUS ROG Strix B550-F: If you are buying an AMD processor (more on that below), get this one. Processor This is the brain of your computer. It sockets directly into the motherboard, and it’s the single most important component of your PC. But that doesn’t mean it has to be the most expensive. We’ll get to that later. If the CPU doesn't mention including thermal paste, make sure to get some too. This one will do. Suggested Hardware Intel Core i7-10700K 8-Core 3.8GHz: This is an excellent choice for high-end systems. AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 4-Core 3.6GHz: AMD's processor is a solid pick if you're on a tighter budget. Want a Gaming PC? Try Building Your Own PC Graphics Card If you’re planning on playing games on this PC, you’ll need a graphics processing unit, or GPU (also called a graphics card). This is a specialized processor that’s designed and optimized for handling primarily visual data like the graphics in games. It's also used in video and photo editing, and other graphics-intensive tasks. Suggested Hardware ASUS GeForce GTX 1660: This one is a good pick for gaming on a budget. SAPHIRE Radeon RX 580: The RX 570 is getting a little long in the tooth, but it's a great buy for AMD fans. ASUS GeForce RTX 2060: If you're looking to get into high-end gaming, this card strikes a good balance between power and price. Storage This is your PC’s walk-in closet. This is where you store all your files, your games, your movies, your documents, your photos, your everything. You can always add more storage later if you need it. Suggested Hardware WD Blue 1 TB Internal SSD: It's quick, with plenty of storage space. Memory You’ll see a lot of the same terms when you’re looking at memory and storage, but they’re very different. Memory is more like that one table you toss things on to deal with later. It’s scratch paper; it’s short-term. It’s very important, though, because software uses memory to cache (temporarily store) data in a place it can be retrieved very quickly. Suggested Hardware Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB : With this much RAM, you should be pretty well set for everyday tasks and gaming. Power Supply Your power supply is a little box that keeps the electricity running to each and every component. It determines how quick and powerful your PC can be. The faster it is, the more power it needs, and you always want to have a little more than you need, just in case. Suggested Hardware Corsair RM650 650 Watt 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular : You should always err on the side of having more power than you need, and this unit will provide exactly that. Case Your case is just what it sounds like. It’s a metal box. It might be covered in glass panels and etched aluminum, but inside it’s just a big metal box that holds everything together. Suggested Hardware Corsair Crystal iCUE 465X RGB : There are lots of different kinds of cases out there, some are super small, others are enormous. And your decision will ultimately come down to the design you like as much as anything else. If you're unsure what to get, this one from Corsair is great for your first build. Other case manufacturers we like are NZXT, Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, and Lian Li. Operating System One thing to remember is that when you build a PC, you don't automatically have Windows included. You'll have to buy a license from Microsoft or another vendor Putting It All Together We’re not going too far into the weeds here, because the internals of every PC are a little different, but in general, here’s how you should go about putting all these components together. First, prep yourself a clean workspace. This can be a dining room table, a cleared off desk—just any surface big enough for your case to lay flat on its side, with ample room around it for the rest of your components. You’ll also need a Phillips-head screwdriver that will fit the screws on your case. When you put these parts together, be sure to discharge any static buildup and work on a nonmetallic surface like a wood table. Or you could just assemble the motherboard on top of the cardboard box it comes in. Most of the components you bought are going to come with instruction manuals; keep them handy. We’re going to start with the motherboard, so open up the instruction manual to the installation page. It can be pretty intimidating—there’s a lot to look at—but think of all this as a big Lego set. Each piece fits into each other piece. For the motherboard, your first job is going to be seating your CPU. Installing Your CPU Depending on what kind of CPU you purchased (Intel or AMD), the chip will have either little prongs on one side (don’t touch them) or little golden contacts on one side (don’t touch them). Seriously, don’t touch that side of your chip. Oils from your fingertips can damage the contacts, or you might bend a pin. Do either one and your processor becomes nothing more than an expensive hunk of silicon. Seating your processor is pretty easy. First, double-check your motherboard’s instructions and make sure you’ve unlocked the processor socket. It’ll be a big square with a bunch of little holes (or contacts), with a lever or button beside it. Your motherboard’s instructions will say explicitly how to unlock the socket so you can put your processor in without any issues. Once you’ve confirmed that it’s unlocked and ready, just find which corner of your processor has a little golden triangle and line it up with the same symbol on your motherboard’s processor socket. Gently lower the processor into the socket, then gently flip the latch or locking mechanism. You shouldn’t have to fight it. If you have to press really hard, double-check that the processor is socketed correctly. Next, you’re going to need your thermal paste. That little tiny plastic syringe of silvery goo is very important for this next step. Now that your processor is seated, take a look at the shiny square of silicon in the center of it. That’s where your heat sink is going to sit. Your processor came with a heat sink, and on one side of it, you’ll see a copper circle. You’re going to be putting the heat sink directly on top of the processor after we apply the thermal paste, with the silicone square and the copper circle lining up perfectly. Go ahead and carefully squeeze a tiny ball (no bigger than a pea) of thermal paste onto the silicon square on your processor. You’ll want it as close to the center as you can get. Now line up your heat sink with the screws surrounding your processor, and gently lower it into place. You’re gonna squish the thermal paste, and the goal here is to create a thin layer covering the back of your processor. It’s OK if it oozes a little bit, but if it oozes out and over the edge of the processor, you used too much. Get some isopropyl alcohol, dab it on a lint-free wipe, and wipe the processor and heat sink. Wait till they’re thoroughly dry and try again. If it looks all right, screw your heat sink into place. Flip back to your motherboard instruction book and find the right place near the processor socket to plug in your heat sink’s cooling fan. It should be very close to your processor socket. Once you’ve found it, plug it in and congratulations, you just installed a CPU. This was the hardest part and it’s over buddy, good job. Installing Your Motherboard and Power Supply The rest of this is formulaic. Let’s start by putting your motherboard into your case. Consult your motherboard’s instructions, line up the screw holes in the case with the ones on your motherboard, and get to work. Next, you’ll want to install your power supply. There should be a spot for it near the top or bottom of the case, a big square spot that will fit your supply perfectly. If you’re having trouble finding it, look at the back of your case: There’ll be a big empty square. That’s where the power supply goes (and where you’ll plug in your PC when you’re all done). Once you've found its home, slot it in and screw it into place. Make sure all the snakey cables coming out of the power supply will reach your motherboard with room to spare. Don’t plug anything in yet, we’re going to come back to the power supply in a bit. Installing Your Graphics Card Your GPU is going to be pretty big. Even a modestly powerful GPU like the GTX 1060 is large compared to your other components. That means how it fits into your case is important. Once you put your GPU in there, space is going to start getting tight. Flip open your motherboard’s instruction book again and look for a PCIe slot. It’s going to be a horizontal slot with a little plastic latch beside it, near the middle or bottom of your motherboard. That’s where the GPU plugs in. All you need to do is identify the back of your GPU (the side with the HDMI and DisplayPorts), line that up with the back of your case, and push the GPU into the horizontal slot. It should lock into place easily enough, and if it doesn’t, make sure you’re inserting it correctly. Find another one of those tiny little screws and fasten your GPU to the case. There’s a little spot for that on the same piece of metal with the HDMI ports. It should be easy to find. Now, take a look at the cables coming out of your power supply. There should be a few that look like they could fit into the square (or rectangular) socket on the side of your GPU. It should look like six or eight little holes in a rectangle shape. If you’re having trouble, take a look at this video from hardware manufacturer Asus. Some of the specifics will be different, but it’s a great look at how to install a GPU. Installing Your Storage and Memory Memory is maybe the easiest thing to install. See those vertical little sockets beside the CPU? Line up your sticks of RAM and slot them in, starting from the left-hand slot. They’ll lock into place once you’ve seated them properly. If you have two sticks of RAM, make sure to skip a slot between them. Your motherboard manual should say which slots to use. For your hard drive or solid-state drive, find an empty bay in the front-facing part of your case. Slide your drive in and screw it into place like we did with the power supply. If you have an M.2 drive (a tiny SSD about the size of a stick of gum), there should be a place on the motherboard where you slot it in directly. Check out your motherboard’s manual to see where the M.2 slot is. Ribbon Cables The motherboard needs to be hooked into all your devices. The power supply unit I used in this build is what's called fully modular, which means that you can select the cables you need and leave the rest off to eliminate clutter. Otherwise, power supplies have a ton of cables, and you'll have to deal with the unused power connections dangling inside your case. You'll need to connect the PSU to the SSD and the motherboard. You also need to plug the motherboard into your case—the power buttons, audio plugs, and USB ports on the front of your case. There are special headers for each kind of plug scattered around the board, so you'll want to check your manual for the location and function of each grouping of pins. These tiny pins need to be plugged in a certain way, and they're unbelievably minuscule. There's also a hookup for the case's fan—in this case I used, there was one header on the motherboard but three fans installed. Then there's the SATA cable for your SSD, which plugs into the motherboard. This part really depends on the hardware you purchased, so consult the manuals for each component to ensure you've plugged it into your motherboard and the power supply correctly. Boot It Up and Install Windows The final stage of your build is a simple one: Hit your power button. If the PC whirs to life, you probably put it together perfectly! If it doesn't though, don't despair. There are a lot of potential problems that could cause a PC to fail to boot up for the first time. This video from Kingston goes over some pitfalls that might cause you some headaches, so if you're not able to boot your PC, give it a watch and retrace your steps. There's also a chance you could have received faulty components. This video goes over some tips on how to can check your parts. If it started up just fine though, the next step is super easy: Turn it off. Remember that Windows flash drive you made earlier? Plug it into the PC and boot it up again. If you set it up right, it should just do its thing and get started. You might need to open your BIOS (check your motherboard's manual for how to do that) and set the USB drive to be a "boot device" first, though. Here's a brief rundown of that process, starting at Step 3.
Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX mid-tower case It looks like Corsair is preparing an interesting new PC case dubbed the Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX . It looks rather premium at a first impression with shipments commencing from 15th September. Some of the various colour option listings have since been removed, but at least one is still live, at the time of writing. As well as possessing premium Obsidian-influenced looks, another attraction of the Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX will be Corsair's new 'RapidRoute' cable management system. RapidRoute is basically a preinstalled cable management system that trunks cabling along a central metal support using Velcro bands sporting the Corsair logo. You can see the system quite clearly below. Furthermore, 25mm of clearance is available beneath the motherboard support to simplify the task of keeping the build tidy. Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX mid-tower case Other titbits about the nature of the Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX mid-tower that can be gleaned from the premature listing are as follows: Room for up to 3x 120mm fans in the front. At the top there seems to be room for 2x fans up to 140mm. At the rear there is a 120mm fan. In total you can fit up to 6x 120mm or 4x 140mm cooling fans, along with multiple radiators including a 360mm in the front and 280mm in the top. Your graphics card can be mounted vertically to show off its RGB fans, for example. RapidRoute cable management system with single channel and roomy 25mm of space behind the motherboard. Support cages/brackets for at least 4x HDDs can be seen. Top I/O panel with (left to right) the power button, a USB 3.0 port, a USB 3.1 Type-C port, next to a combi audio jack, and a reset button. Weight 7.8kg, measurements 17.83 x 9.06 x 18.35 inches. 2x Corsair AirGuide 120mm pre-installed - one in the front and one rear, it seems from the photos. As per the intro this chassis should become available mid-September, in various colours/finishes https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/Categories/Products/Cases/c/Cor_Products_Cases
Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Founders Edition: Hail to the King! Nvidia's GeForce RTX 3080 Founders Edition is here, claiming the top spot on our GPU benchmarks hierarchy, and ranking as the best graphics card currently available — provided you're after performance first, with price and power being lesser concerns. After months of waiting, we finally have independent benchmarks and testing data. Nvidia has thrown down the gauntlet, clearly challenging AMD's Big Navi to try and match or beat what the Ampere architecture brings to the table. We have a separate article going deep into the Ampere architecture that powers the Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 and other related GPUs. If you want the full rundown of everything that's changed compared to the Turing architecture, we recommend starting there. But here's the highlight reel of the most important changes: The GA102 is the first GPU from Nvidia to drop into the single digits on lithography, using Samsung's 8N process. The general consensus is that TSMC's N7 node is 'better' overall, but it also costs more and is currently in very high demand — including from Nvidia's own A100. Could the consumer Ampere GPUs have been even better with 7nm? Perhaps. But they might have cost more, only been available in limited quantities, or maybe they would have been delayed a few more months. Regardless, GA102 is still a big and powerful chip, boasting 28.3 billion transistors packed into a 628.4mm square die. If you're wondering, that's 52% more transistors than the TU102 chip used in RTX 2080 Ti, but in a 17% smaller area. Ampere ends up as a split architecture, with the GA100 taking on data center ambitions while the GA102 and other consumer chips have significant differences. The GA100 focuses far more on FP64 performance for scientific workloads, as well as doubling down on deep learning hardware. Meanwhile, the GA102 drops most of the FP64 functionality and instead includes ray tracing hardware, plus some other architectural enhancements. Let's take a closer look at the Ampere SM found in the GA102 and GA104. Nvidia has radically altered the design of its Founders Edition cards for the RTX 30-series. The new design still includes two axial fans, but Nvidia heavily redesigned the PCB and shortened it so that the 'back' of the card (away from the video ports) consists of just a fan, heatpipes, radiator fins, and the usual graphics card shroud. Nvidia says the new design delivers substantial improvements in cooling efficiency, while at the same time lowering noise levels. We'll see the fruits of the design later. Aesthetics are highly subjective, and we've heard plenty of people like the new design, while others think it looks boring. There's no RGB bling if that's your thing, and the only lighting consists of a white GeForce RTX logo on the top of the card with subtle lighting around the 'X' on both sides of the card (but only half of the 'X' is lit up on the side with the "RTX 3080" logo). Personally, I think the new card looks quite nice, and it feels very solid in the hand. It's actually about 100g heavier than the previous RTX 2080 design, and as far as I'm aware, it's the heaviest single-GPU card Nvidia has ever created. It's also about 2cm longer than the previous generation cards and uses the typical two-slot width. (The GeForce RTX 3090 is about ready to make the 3080 FE look puny, though, with its massive three-slot cooler.) Nvidia provided the above images of the teardown of the RTX 3080 Founders Edition. We're not ready to attempt disassembly of our card yet — and frankly, we're out of time — but we may return to the subject soon. We're told getting the card apart is a bit trickier this round, mostly because Nvidia has hidden the screws behind tiny covers. Advertisement The main board looks far more densely populated than previous GPUs, with the 10 GDDR6X memory chips surrounding the GPU in the center. You can also see the angled 12-pin power connector and the funky-looking cutout at the end of the PCB. Power delivery is obviously important with a 320W TGP, and you can see all the solid electrolytic capacitors placed to the left and right of the memory chips. The memory arrangement is also interesting, with four chips on the left and right sides of the GPU, up to three chips above the GPU (two mounting positions are empty for the RTX 3080), and a final single chip below the GPU. Again, Nvidia clearly spent a lot of effort to reduce the size of the board and other components to accommodate the new and improved cooling design. Spoiler: It works very well. One interesting thing is that the 'front' fan (near the video ports) spins in the usual direction — counterclockwise. The 'back' fan, which will typically face upward when you install the card in an ATX case, spins clockwise. If you look at the fins, that means the back fan spins the opposite direction from what we normally expect. The reason is that Nvidia found this arrangement pulls air through the radiator better and generates less noise. Also note that the back fan is slightly thicker, and the integrated ring helps increase static pressure on both fans while keeping RPMs low.
Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 Everything we know about the GeForce RTX 3070 Nvidia, including specs, performance, price Nvidia just announced the GeForce RTX 3070 and other GPUs that use the new Ampere architecture, and the great news is that pricing hasn't radically changed from the current RTX 20-series Super cards. The RTX 3070 will pick up where the RTX 2070 Super left off and it's going to kick some butt over in the best graphics cards and GPU hierarchy. And if you have more money to spend, there's always the GeForce RTX 3080 and GeForce RTX 3090. Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 spec 8GB GDDR6 at 16 (?) Gbps Double the CUDA cores: 5888 and 20.4 TFLOPS Samsung 8nm part is 1.9X more efficient than Turing Release Date: RTX 3070 coming in October 2020 Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 Features We've covered most of the underlying Ampere architecture here. Here, the focus is specifically on the upcoming GeForce RTX 3070 Nvidia. We were afraid of what Nvidia might do with pricing, and we were excited to see what it would do with performance enhancing features. The fears, it turns out, were mostly unfounded, and the specs are mouthwatering. The main GPU core now packs a whopping 5888 CUDA cores. That's far more than the outgoing RTX 2080 Ti, and with higher clockspeeds it should end up delivering better performance. For less than half the price. You may now commence to party. The only major unknown right now is the memory speed. Nvidia says it will use GDDR6 memory, where the RTX 3080 and RTX 3090 will use faster GDDR6X memory. We assume the VRAM will clock in at 16 Gbps, but it might only be 14 Gbps. We'll get confirmation in the coming days. We also don't know if the GeForce RTX 3070 Nvidia will use the same GA102 chip as the RTX 3090 and 3080, only with fewer SMs and memory channels enabled, or if it's a completely separate chip. It's very likely a separate chip, but Nvidia hasn't officially said one way or the other. It doesn't really matter, as either way you would get the same performance, though there are sometimes interesting edge cases. (Nvidia has used two or more different GPU cores for previous graphics cards.) One important aspect of the RTX 3070 is that, unlike the RTX 3090, it keeps with a relatively tame power rating of just 220W. Sure, that's more than the 2070's 175W, but it basically matches the 2070 Super's 215W TDP. Geforce RTx
Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard is the next-generation halo card from Team Green, and it's going to be a monster. Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard is now confirmed as the next halo graphics card from Team Green, and Jensen has spilled the beans (most of them, anyway) on specs and performance. If you want the best performance from Nvidia's Ampere architecture, get ready to take out a small loan, because the king of the GPU hierarchy and the best graphics card ('best' as in 'fastest') won't come cheap. The RTX 3090 sets a new high-bar for single-GPU pricing at $1,499, not counting Nvidia's Titan series that it's apparently meant to replace. Here's everything we know about the GeForce RTX 3090. We've covered the high-level view of Nvidia's new Ampere GPUs elsewhere, and you can read about the GeForce RTX 3080 and GeForce RTX 3070 in their own dedicated articles. The focus here is on the Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard. After months of speculation and waiting, we finally have the hard details. It's big, quite literally. Nvidia's RTX 3090 reference model (we're not sure if Nvidia is still using Founders Edition branding) sports a triple-slot cooler and has a 350W TDP. You might need a PSU, case, and CPU upgrade to make the most of this bad boy. The Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard is the first 90-series suffix we've seen from Nvidia since the GTX 690 back in 2012. That was a dual-GPU variant of the GTX 680, back when multi-GPU was a thing. Which, technically it still is, but support has been seriously lacking of late. Regardless, the RTX 3090 is the only Ampere GeForce GPU that has NVLink support this round, just in case you have $3,000 sitting around. (Don't do it!) But let's hit the specs. Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard At A Glance: 24GB GDDR6X at 19.5Gbps10496 CUDA cores and 35.7 TFLOPS of FP32 computeSamsung 8N manufacturing process1.9 times more efficient than TuringRelease Date: September 24, 2020Price: $1,499 Price will change depend on the market shipping and extra cooling Brand Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard Specifications Holy TFLOPS, Batman! No, seriously: Wow! We heard various rumors. We heard Nvidia might double the number of shader cores per SM. What we didn't expect was double the FP32 shaders while still packing 82 SMs. And Nvidia could have theoretically gone even bigger (the GA100 is an 826mm square chip, where GA102 is apparently only around 627mm square). Still, the resulting 36 TFLOPS of compute is going to be a massive boost to performance … provided the rest of your PC can keep up. Raw compute power is 150% more than the RTX 2080 Ti, for both the CUDA cores and the Tensor cores. As in, on paper the RTX 3090 is 2.5 times as fast as the previous king. Actually, maybe that's not fair — it should be compared with the Titan RTX, right? Then it's only 2.2 times as fast, plus it costs $1,000 less. I'm a bit sad that the GDDR6X memory 'only' clocks in at 19.5Gbps, and I'm in need of a GPU hat to eat (chocolate, please!), but we're still looking at 24GB of memory and 936 GBps of bandwidth. That's a 52% increase relative to the RTX 2080 Ti, and Nvidia likely has some architectural improvements to that it makes better effective use of that bandwidth. Finally, ray tracing performance is 69 TFLOPS of RT computation. Nvidia rated the previous Turing GPUs in gigarays per second, but that was misleading, so we're now getting RT-TFLOPS. The RTX 2080 Ti incidentally had 34 TFLOPS of RT prowess. Again, Nvidia is looking at more than double the computational power on all the core metrics, and a bit more than 50% more memory bandwidth. Meet the Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb VgacardThe GeForce RTX 3090 isn't just the most expensive GeForce card to date; it's the largest graphics card Nvidia has sold. We've seen various third party designs push the limits of good sense (in a good way, provided you have a large PC), but Nvidia has previously limited its designs to 2-slot solutions. No more! The RTX 3090 is a triple-slot card, measuring 12.3-inches in length and 5.4-inches in height. It's a monster! And I love it. Be still, my heart! Forgive techno-lust, but this is definitely an exciting GPU. Soon, it will be here. My precious... Ahem. As listed above, the RTX 3090 also sports a 350W TDP (or TGP if you prefer, which is power to the entire GPU, not counting any extra power used by things like VirtualLink). To help cope with the added thermal output, Nvidia has significantly altered the cooling design compared to previous generation The above image is from Nvidia's RTX 3080, but the GeForce RTX 3090 is the same fundamental design — only bigger. We're not positive, but it looks like the 3090 will have a bigger fan (120mm?) to go along with the wider heatsink. The size of the PCB meanwhile is smaller than the previous generation cards, so the extra size really is all about cooling. It's not too surprising to see Nvidia take this approach. Even though the Turing architecture was very efficient overall, it still ran into power and thermal limits on the fastest models (RTX 2080 Super and above). The only way around that is to increase the TDP, and that meant improving the cooling capabilities as the top RTX 20-series Founders Edition graphics cards could get quite hot. Part of the redesign also involved moving from dual 8-pin power connectors to a single 12-pin connector, at least for Nvidia's reference design. Third party cards appear to be sticking with dual 8-pin connectors for the most part, and the 12-pin cable doesn't necessarily deliver more power. It's just a more compact connector, rotated 90 degrees to free up even more board space. How will the new design fare against third party cards? We're certainly interested to find out. Will it be quieter, or lower temperatures, or both? Check back in a few weeks and we'll have the details. Rtx 3090 Nvidia Geforce 24gb Vgacard Features Nvidia's GeForce RTX 3090 will make use of Micron's GDDR6X memory. This GPU and the RTX 3080 are the only ones slated to use GDDR6X for now, and Nvidia had to further improve the signal delivery to boost speeds. HDMI 2.1 makes its debut in a graphics card, but the three DisplayPort connectors remain stuck at 1.4a. Both standards can drive an 8K display, but where HDMI 2.1 can do 8K120 via DSC, DisplayPort 1.4a requires DSC just to get to 8K60. Advertisement Nvidia has also added PCIe Gen4 support to its Ampere GPU. It's worth pointing out that this probably won't matter much for gaming performance, as the large 24GB of VRAM means there should be less data going back and forth over the PCIe bus. The other problem of course is that the fastest gaming CPUs still come from Intel, and Intel doesn't have a desktop PCIe Gen4 solution yet. That will come with next year's Rocket Lake processors, which will yet again use Intel's 14nm++(++) process. Does that mean AMD's X570 platform with a Ryzen 9 3900X is the better choice, since you get Gen4 support? Almost certainly not. We recently ran a full suite of benchmarks on ten GPUs and compared the performance of the Core i9-9900K vs. Ryzen 9 3900X. There were a few edge cases where the 3900X came out ahead, but it was more like a tie. For the RX 5700 XT at least, having a faster PCIe interface didn't appear to matter. Hopefully Zen 3 can further close the CPU gap, but that's a topic for another day. Nvidia GeForce RTX 3090 PerformanceWhat's the net result of all these improvements? Citius, Altius, Fortius. Or in Nvidia's case: Bigger, faster, better. There's no doubt the RTX 3090 will emerge as Nvidia's fastest GPU ever, and we'd be extremely surprised to see AMD's Big Navi match it. It's not impossible, but it's extremely unlikely. But then it's also $1,500, which is enough to build a complete gaming PC with a GeForce RTX 3070. How much faster will RTX 3090 be in practice, though? That's the tougher question. We've tested a lot of games and graphics cards over the years, and just in 2020 we've encountered several games where the RTX 2080 Ti didn't come in first place until at least 1080p ultra, and sometimes 1440p ultra. In short, the CPU was a bottleneck, and with potentially 2.5 times the GPU performance, it's going to be an even bigger bottleneck with the RTX 3090. First piece of advice, then: Don't even bother with the RTX 3090 if you're not using a 4K display. There will be games where it's still the fastest GPU even at 1080p, particularly if the games use ray tracing, but I just can't see 1080p being a good fit for this GPU. If you're playing esports games like CSGO, even an RTX 3070 should suffice for 360 fps. If you're not, then you won't get above 200 fps even at minimum settings in many games. AdvertisementNvidia provided the above comparison of ray tracing performance, but it didn't state whether this was for RTX 3090 vs. RTX 2080 Ti, or some other comparison like RTX 3080 vs. RTX 2080. Regardless, even at 4K, in most cases the new Ampere GPU isn't able to double the performance of Turing. Maybe there are other factors, but we wager the CPU is holding the graphics card back at least a little. If you do have a high-end or one of the best gaming monitors, however, and you want to run with all the bells and whistles? The GeForce RTX 3090 is your best chance at maintaining silky smooth framerates. That will be even more important as the next generation consoles launch and we start to see games use more ray tracing effects. Besides Cyberpunk 2077, which will use ray tracing for shadows, reflections, ambient occlusion, and diffuse illumination (plus DLSS 2.0), Call of Duty Black Ops Cold War will similarly support dynamic lights, shadows, ambient occlusion, and DLSS 2.0. And the RTX 3090 is beefy enough that you can probably even use all of those in multiplayer without tanking your framerates. In short, while the first generation of ray tracing enhanced games wasn't necessarily a great showcase for the technology (Control and perhaps Minecraft RTX being exceptions), it's not going anywhere. Nearly every movie these days makes use of ray tracing. It might be in its infancy as far as gaming is concerned, but over the coming years we expect to see more games pushing better effects. Just don't be surprised when RTX 4090 or RTX 5090 show up in the coming years and make even the RTX 3090 look anemic. Nvidia GeForce RTX 3090: The Bottom LineThe biggest unknowns have now been answered. The GeForce RTX 3090 is a graphical tour de force, with a massive 10496 GPU cores delivering up to 36 TFLOPS of compute performance. It will officially launch on September 24, priced at $1,500. Don't be surprised if it sells out, and don't be surprised if many custom designs end up costing far more than $1,500. That's actually the good part about GeForce RTX 3090 branding instead of Titan branding. Nvidia always did their Titan cards in-house, and third party designs weren't allowed. The result was that the cards cost an arm and a leg (and a kidney as well), for a relatively small increase in performance. If you've got deep pockets, by all means, pre-order an RTX 3090 and get ready to rub it in your friends' noses. Why not order two plus an NVLink connector for good measure? You should seriously consider tossing in an 8K display for good measure. The rest of us will wait to see what the real-world gaming performance looks like come September 24 (depend on the shipping and Covid19 delay) link for info.